r/travel • u/MyHumbleOpinion3 • 1h ago
Images + Trip Report Magical Madeira
If you love nature, hiking, and spectacular views, I can't recommend Madeira highly enough. I enjoyed it so much, I've been twice now - once by myself in November and once with a family member in April, and it's one of those rare destinations where it never gets too hot or cold (I say this as someone who lives in the UK, so if you're from a hot country, you might disagree).
Always take some layers and a pac-a-mac with you, though, because the weather is highly changeable, and as you travel around the island (particularly up in the mountains), you're probably going to experience wind, rain and ominous-looking clouds at some point, but they usually blow over pretty quickly.
When I first arrived in Funchal, it was a novelty seeing a city effectively built into the side of a mountain, but I'll be completely honest: it was more built up than I expected it to be. It was also pretty busy on the seafront with a cruise ship in port, there were no sandy beaches in sight, and the concrete wave-breakers were a bit of an eyesore. At first glance, it didn't look like the Madeira that had been sold to me by Instagram.
HOWEVER, I quickly discovered that if you want to see the best of Madeira's stunning landscapes, as with most places, you need to get out of the city... although you don't need to go far.
Monte Palace Tropical Gardens (and the nearby Botanical Gardens)
My first morning in Madeira, I took the cable car from Funchal city centre up to Monte Palace Tropical Gardens, and any qualms I had about whether Madeira was going to be a case of Instagram vs reality promptly evaporated. The place was full of flowers and plants I'd never seen before, which were arranged beautifully. Think Keukenhof with a tropical twist (and without the crowds). There were peacocks walking around with their feathers on full display, flamingoes just casually taking a bath by waterfalls, koi carp in crystal-clear pools, and as you make your way down the winding paths, you're eventually greeted by a stunning house with a waterfall, and beautiful views over the city, which made me see it in a whole new light.
Top tip: when you get off the cable car, Monte Palace Tropical Gardens is on your left. Make sure you take the path to the right of the cable car on your way back, too, because that leads to the Botanical Gardens. They're not quite as impressive, but still well worth a look.
Alternatively, you can take a more unconventional route back down to the city and join the loooong queue to ride one of the "toboggans", where you basically sit in a gigantic wicker basket while two guys in straw hats push you back down the (very steep) hill to the city. It reminded me a bit of a waltzer ride, and I giggled the whole way down. Was it worth queueing for an hour and paying 40 euros? Just about. Make sure you have some cash on you because they somehow manage to take a picture of you on the way down, too, and while it's clearly a money-grabbing scheme, it does make for a nice keepsake.
Other highlights in Funchal include whale-watching (I did a sunset tour), the Farmers' Market, Santa Catarina Park (which has a fountain, swans, exotic flowers and lots of tiny lizards scurrying around the walls) and Forte de São Tiago (an old, bright yellow fort at the far end of the promenade). There are also some lidos on the prom too.
Getting around the island
If you're a confident driver with a good mastery of clutch control, renting a car (I'd highly suggest a 4x4) is probably the best way to see the island, but there are a lot of steep hills and narrow streets - and that includes in Funchal itself. I usually rely on public transport, but that rarely runs to remote viewpoints, and I can see why; it'd be the British equivalent of navigating Hardknott pass 10 times a day.
I took day tours or transfers to all of the places I wanted to see. I thought they were amazing value for money too - in Montenegro, Slovenia and Croatia, I was paying between £80-£100 for tours to places that weren't easily accessible by public transport, but I got to see the west and east coast of Madeira for just £30 each.
You can also get direct transfers to the start and end point of all the major hikes (also for less than £30). I did Caldeirão Verde, 25 Fontes, a sunrise tour to Pico do Arieiro, and Ponta de São Lourenço. This meant I could enjoy hiking at my own pace without having to stick with a large group of people and listen to a tour guide chatting to us for hours. I found the time we were given to complete each hike was more than sufficient (although not everyone on my bus agreed 😂), and the views along the way are amazing.
One of the things I love most about Madeira is the diversity of the landscapes - jagged cliffs and rugged coastlines, lush forests that make you feel like you've just landed in Jurassic Park, viewpoints over sprawling valleys, quaint little villages, and every type of flora and fauna.
Here's the lo-down (both good and bad) on some of the places I visited:
Pico do Arieiro
I went up here for sunrise and it was spectacular. The views of the surrounding mountains are stunning once you get a bit of daylight too. Obviously they depend on the cloud cover, but it's worth trying more than once if you don't get lucky the first time. Lots of people then go on to do the famous hike to Pico Ruivo, where the views are reportedly even better, but I admittedly couldn't stomach tackling the "Stairway to Heaven" at 6am.
Achadas da Cruz
This is one of the harder places to get to (there was only one tour I could find that goes there), and you have to take one of the steepest cable car rides in Europe to get down the cliff face, but once you're there, the coastline is absolutely stunning, with waves alternatively lapping/crashing against rugged cliffs. It wasn't remotely crowded, either - probably because of the stories the guides told us about people who get stranded there after missing the last cable car and have to walk their way back up the near-vertical cliff.
Porto Moniz
This is a gorgeous town on the coast with natural sea pools that you can swim in if the water isn't too choppy. The guide will drop you off by the entrance to the pools, which you have to pay to use, but I'd recommend walking up to the aquarium instead (it looks like a castle), and strolling along the pathways there. They lead to some lovely, less exposed rock pools that you can swim in for free, and some nice viewpoints too.
Ponta de São Lourenço Hike
Here you hike out over jagged cliffs with amazing views over the Atlantic, and Madeira's coastline. The hike itself is relatively easy, although there is some elevation gain. You might also see some birds and seals, as it's a designated nature reserve.
Levada Hikes
Caldeirão Verde and 25 Fontes are two separate hikes along levadas that both lead to scenic waterfalls (or, in the case of 25 Fontes, multiple waterfalls!)
With levada walks, it's worth noting that you're walking on a pretty narrow pathway next to a shallow channel of running water (which sometimes has a distinct stench of urine), so when the trail gets busier and people start coming at you from the opposite direction while you're making your way back, you literally have to lean over the water, brace yourself against the opposite wall, and balance on one leg to let them past. I'm betting quite a few people find themselves knee-deep in a levada against their will, so make sure your shoes are waterproof.
If you don't have time to do both hikes, I'd pick Caldeirão Verde. It was less crowded and more beautiful overall. When you get to the trailhead, you're greeted by a thatched house that looks like something out of a fairytale in the middle of the woods, complete with some Snow White-esque animals that have thatched houses of their own. The first time I went, I did the traditional hike to the waterfall, which takes about 4-6 hours and definitely has a "Welcome to Jurassic Park" feel about it when the forest gives way to sprawling views. Then you realise you're effectively walking near a cliff edge, although it's easy to forget that when you're so immersed in the trees. Just when you're starting to feel like the scenery is getting a bit repetitive, you'll be treated to another great view, along with some dark tunnels that you'll definitely need a phone flashlight to navigate through.
The Caldeirão Verde waterfall itself is impressively tall, but admittedly not very powerful. It's definitely no Krimml, and there's a chance you could feel a bit underwhelmed given the effort involved in getting there, but it's still worth a look.
The second time I went, I knew the person with me wouldn't be able to finish the hike in the allocated time, so we decided to potter around and explore the surrounding area instead. Instead of taking the path to the right to start the hike to Caldeirão Verde, we took the path up some steps to the left. This led to an even more enchanting forest where we were completely on our own, there were no levadas, and we even encountered some streams and waterfalls on the way. There was a picnic table overgrown with moss and colourful little birds that will eat out of your hand if you sit still for long enough. I'm so glad I had the time to explore this area, or else I would have had no idea it existed.
Fanal Forest
Fanal looks glorious in the sunshine and then takes on this eerie, otherworldly feel when the famous fog descends. I literally got lost in it, and a few of us rather embarrassingly had to be "rescued" by our tour guide because we couldn't see more than a couple of feet in front of us to find our way back to the car park. The trees do look pretty cool looming out of the mist, though.
Seixal beach
A black(ish) sand beach that gives Hawaii vibes if you photograph it from the right angle. The views on the left are nothing to write home about, but the rest is stunning. There's even a mini waterfall!
Nun's Valley, the Eira do Serrado viewpoint and Curral das Freiras
This can be done as a half-day tour from Funchal. Seeing a small village of houses absolutely dwarfed by the surrounding valley is quite something, and Curral das Freiras has one of the prettiest graveyards I've ever seen. A lot of tours also give you a free taster session of the local liqueur too - and it's pretty potent stuff.
Ponta do Sol and the Cascata dos Anjos waterfall
Ponta do Sol is a picturesque coastal town with colourful houses. On the way back to Funchal, a lot of tours also go via the Cascata dos Anjos waterfall. This waterfall runs directly onto the middle of the road, and our jeep driver drove straight through it with an open-top roof. I haven't squealed like that in quite some time. 😂
Cabo Girao Skywalk
Included on a lot of tours, usually as the start/end point, this gives you sweeping views from the highest cliff-top in Europe. It's worth it, but I'd also say they're far from being the best views I've seen on the island, so if you're short on time, you could probably afford to skip it.
Santana
This is the village where you can see all of the traditional thatched houses, complete with perfectly manicured gardens. Probably the place that feels the most "touristy" out of everywhere I visited, but still lovely.
Costs
We paid £428 for six nights in a two-bedroomed apartment in April, which I thought was a bargain split between us.
Tours and transfers cost around £250 in total, ranging from £27 to a maximum of £64.
Flights from the UK can be as cheap as £30 each way with Ryanair or EasyJet, plus the usual add-ons for luggage and seats. The airport is notoriously difficult to land at, though, so there's a very small chance you will be diverted elsewhere (it's never happened to me).
Food wasn't too expensive, although we didn't dine out much. It was about £20 for a main course with drinks, and the supermarkets were reasonable.
General vibes
The people were lovely - the island embraces tourism as one of its primary sources of income - and I always felt completely safe, even when I went solo on my first trip. I don't tend to venture out much after dark, though, so I can't speak to what it's like at night. The only place that ever felt a bit "too" crowded was the promenade in Funchal, but only when cruise ships were docked. Otherwise, it was a joy.